Daniel Day-Lewis Crafted A Balenciaga Dress From Scratch To Prepare For 'Phantom Thread'

A legend whose dedication redefined acting.

Damjan

• Published in Film & TV
• October 27, 2024

This past June, the world of cinema was struck by the news that Daniel Day-Lewis, one of the greatest actors of his generation, was stepping away from the screen for good. Day-Lewis holds the unique record of winning three Academy Awards for Best Actor, and his retirement marks the end of an era in Hollywood.

Known for his deep commitment to the art of acting, Day-Lewis cited personal reasons for his departure, choosing not to elaborate further. His final performance would be as Reynolds Woodcock in Phantom Thread, a film directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, which premiered on December 25.

Throughout his career, Daniel Day-Lewis has been a master of transformation, renowned for the remarkable lengths he goes to embody his characters. This dedication has led to unforgettable roles in films such as My Left Foot; There Will Be Blood and Lincoln.

In Phantom Thread, he brings to life Reynolds Woodcock, a fictional couturier from 1950s England inspired by the legendary Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. Day-Lewis immersed himself in haute couture to prepare, studying every facet of the craft.

He watched archived fashion shows from the 1940s and 1950s, worked with fashion experts from London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, and learned sketching, draping, and sewing techniques from industry professionals.

Day-Lewis didn’t stop there. In his pursuit of authenticity, he apprenticed under Marc Happel, costume director of the New York City Ballet. Over a year, he worked as part of the team, even assisting with costumes for a ballet production of Firebird.

He recreated a Balenciaga sheath dress from scratch to capture Woodcock's essence, using his wife, filmmaker Rebecca Miller, as his model. Such rigorous methods are characteristic of Day-Lewis’s process, and it’s through this dedication that he brings his characters to life with rare depth and realism.

Daniel Day-Lewis is known for his meticulous dedication to every role he undertakes.

However, many of the skills he acquired for this role are not evident on screen. His character, Reynolds Woodcock, uses his background as a couturier primarily to assert control and perfectionism, especially over his muse and love interest, Alma, portrayed by Vicky Krieps.

Their relationship is complex and tense, with clothing as a symbolic medium through which Woodcock exerts his influence. For instance, at one point in the film, Alma apologizes for her small bust, and Woodcock coolly replies that it is his role as a designer to “give” her one.

Though his tone isn’t harsh, this moment underscores his belief that even her body is part of his artistic domain.

Mastering these skills is essential to how he fully embodies his characters.

This intense commitment to learning every aspect of a character’s world makes Day-Lewis one of the most respected actors in cinema. Each role he takes becomes an opportunity to adopt an entirely new identity.

For example, in The Last of the Mohicans, he played a frontiersman who had lived among Native Americans for years. To prepare, he learned to build canoes, track and skin animals, and reload a flintlock rifle while running.

His training wasn’t superficial; it became part of how he brought his character to life—for The Unbearable Lightness of Being, adapted from Milan Kundera’s novel, Day-Lewis even learned to speak Czech. However, the film itself was in English. This approach is more than method acting—it’s a complete immersion that allows him to “become” his character.

Day-Lewis’s career has been defined by his willingness to go to any length to understand his roles. For him, the character’s life, skills, and environment must be so familiar that they become second nature.

This is the essence of his method and what makes his performances unforgettable. His dedication has created a high theatrical standard, inspiring audiences and fellow actors. He leaves a lasting legacy of excellence and craftsmanship as he departs from the acting world.

Damjan